Thursday 27 December 2007

Safari for Christmas

Merry Christmas to you all!! Great news from my old mate Ben that his wife is expecting! That really brought a smile to my face on Christmas Eve and it also reminded me how much i miss all my mates and family at this time of year. Big shout out to everyone....i miss y'all!
Still i didn't do too badly for Christmas: went on a game drive through Imfolozi Park and was lucky to see 3 to 4 leopards feasting on a kill!! Magic.. There was some debate between this hot Saffa chick in a nearby car and myself with my high-beam binoculars as to whether they were leopards or cheetahs. I was more interested in getting her number but she just insisted they were cheetahs and laughed off my advances. They were definately leopards...
We also saw a huge bull Elephant strolling through Mpila Camp and when you're on foot facing one of these badboys they really are impressive. Got some great snaps. With my friends Andy and Yvonne we stayed at Mpila in 2002 but we didn't see half as much as i have this time (AFI - 'another f****** impala'...).
After having stopped to have a braai in the park i proceeded to Durban with a few friends to have sushi, get checked out by some Japanese hookers (i declined their offer) and finish the day with a whisky at Goble Palms B&B - colonial living at its best.
Only a month to go before i depart for Oz, but i'm working New Years Eve in the meantime which is meant to be carnage! Wish me luck..

Wednesday 19 December 2007

Zuma from Nkandla

So Jacob Zuma is the new ANC president and likely future South African president next year. He's a Nkandla boy and lives close to the hospital and although i think he's a corrupt chauvanist with some terrible views on HIV prevention the locals love him and feel he is a man-for-the-poor so one can only wait and see what happens.
Speaking of the poor i was summoned to the local magistrate's court today to give evidence in an alleged assault case in which i had examined the victim. It was pretty nerve wracking even though i was only asked simple questions. I can only imagine what it must be like to be properly cross-examined. The defendant decided to conduct his own defence and when asked if he had any questions for me he hesitated then said 'cha' (pronounced with a 'tut' for 'c') which means 'no'!
In my attempt to bring a little bit of festive cheer to the area, as it has been pissing with rain and cold (bit like England), i gave some of my patients a lift to the local taxi rank yesterday. This might sound trivial but i've decided usually not to pick up anyone as the risk of hijacking is so high. I reassured myself that i'd just examined the 13yo girl with a broken leg who was accompanied by her grandmother - so the hijack risk was low! They were standing by the hospital gates in the rain with no umbrella as i was leaving to go to the bank. They were so grateful that i picked them up for the 2 min drive to the rank and it really made my day as it had been pretty depressing up until then. Sometimes its the smallest gestures that bring the most pleasure..

Wednesday 12 December 2007

In with the Sharks

Yeah that's right, i went scuba diving with about 50 sharks....and no cage! Correct! It was absolutely insane and easily the scariest thing i have ever done. There were 3 large Tiger Sharks roaming about too - up to 4m in length and potentially very dangerous!! Thankfully they were more interested in the sardine bait than me. But for those of you who don't believe i did it, i have the DVD to prove it (with the image of me looking very seasick at the end!). Awesome!
I realised that i haven't put much on my blog about my work. Its difficult to describe how varied, interesting, relentless any one day can be. Suffice to say that the experience is amazing and so different to how and where i've worked before. Only this week i was looking after a 2yo boy who'd been bitten by a spitting cobra! His arm was terribly swollen and getting worse, but thankfully after a bit of anti-venom and elevating the arm i was able to transfer him to a big referral hospital in Durban (3 hours away) and he is alive and well! I've been in charge of Paediatrics occasionally as well as my usual Emergency work. The Paeds work can be so rewarding but with all the HIV infected kids its also pretty dispiriting. I have this adorable little boy with HIV on the ward who has posed for lots of photos, and i so hope the Anti-Retroviral Therapy works for him. With so many infected the future for South Africa can so often look bleak...i truly hope things change soon as this is a wonderful country. However, i'm not optimistic...

Thursday 6 December 2007

2 goals and an Elephant

Just been on safari for a few days with mum and dad at Hluhlwe Game Park in KwaZulu Natal. We stayed at an amazing place called Hilltop Camp where you can see out over the park with water buffalo grazing and birds of prey everywhere. One yellow billed kite tried to swoop and steal mum's rump steak from her plate, but she held on tight! We saw loads of rhino, an elephant, hyenas, porcupine, giraffe etc etc... the big cats were elusive but there aren't many there so it wasn't a real surprise. And tomorrow i'm going on a shark dive on the Aliwal Shoal near Durban (without the folks!!). Likely to be in the water with Tiger Sharks and Black tip sharks, and no cage!! Nuts....
On the way to Hluhlwe i got pulled over by a traffic cop who claimed i was speeding (i confess i was but i didn't immediately admit this). He told me i had to pay a 'cash fine' to which i nearly laughed in his face at how brazen he was being about the bribe. I played dumb, told him i was here working in a rural hospital and miraculously he wandered off after giving me a verbal warning. And to think i was just about to give him R100 cash!
My final bit of news is that i notched 2 goals for the Blue Stars last week at Nkandla stadium in front of maybe 10 supporters (it was pissing with rain). For midweek games our manager gets smashed on whiskey and delivers the teamtalk with a slur. So at half time he put his arm round me, told me to score 2 goals and then took another swig. So i duly obliged... one of which i beat 3 players and then slotted past the keeper. Nice!

Sunday 25 November 2007

Pics




Hoping these pics will come out. Check out the mud huts which are just 5kms from Nkandla and typical of the area. The number of cows boost the attendance figures at the stadium (pitch is not bad compared to the other grounds).

Computer is so slow i can't be asked to add any more at the moment. I'm in Durban with my mum so just enjoying some family time....in the internet cafe...

Thursday 22 November 2007

Right Midfield

I hear England may be looking for a new right midfielder now that Becks seems to have played his 99th and last game, look no further than the Blue Stars' no. 7! In our last two games we have won 4-1 and 5-1 and a number of the goals have been supplied from the right wing. And this was on a pitch with no grass and against oppositions who were a lot younger and fitter than i am (more comparisons with Becks). On Sunday i put in an inch-perfect cross for our no. 10 to nod home much to the pleasure of my watching management (all of whom were getting pissed on whiskey on the sidelines!!).
On a more disappointing note i am constantly aware that i am not completely accepted as one of the boys. I guess this is not surprising seeing as i am the only player who seems to have a job - and certainly the only one whose job pays well. So when 2 of the lads pitched up at the hospital today to ask for 50 Rand it was difficult to say 'no'. But i did as i'm no pushover and have been giving the management money to buy new balls (and hopefully not whiskey!).
Been having great chats with people both in England and Australia - i really appreciate the calls so please keep them coming. Work often gets me down as it is so frustrating and difficult to change peoples bad habits, so to have a laugh with friends on the phone is a real comfort!

Wednesday 14 November 2007

No Show

Comical moment for me on Saturday. Having driven to Mthingwa high school for a game with the Blue Stars i was told that it had been switched to the Nkandla Stadium which was a few kms away. I was so pleased as there wasn't a blade of grass on the school pitch and the stadium has a full time groundsman! So i got there and we were messing about waiting for the oppo. I won the team penalty shoot-out comp and was elected taker for the game! Then the boss told us to get changed and did the team sheet (still no sign of oppo) and we jogged to the half way line for the customary inspection by the referee in full kit, shinpads and boots. He took his R120 fee, blew his whistle and my teammates all laughed and we jogged back to the manager! At this stage i asked one of the guys who speaks good English what was happening, and he told me the other team weren't coming and we automatically won 2-0!! Comical, classic moment as i didn't have a clue what was happening and was all stretched and ready to play!
I also had a wry smile on another interview panel yesterday. There was only 1 candidate for a very senior nursing position - the other candidates had been disqualified as they had not produced their documents. When i looked at the nurse's CV, 2 of her referees were on the interview panel!! Is that legal? Surely that is against employment law?! She was very good (and connected) so we gave her the job anyway..

Thursday 8 November 2007

Headline News

This week Nkandla was the headline story on the national TV news for all the wrong reasons. The local old age home at Kwamadala had a fire on the male ward and consequently 12 people died as the ward was locked shut! I was on duty and treated patients brought to the 'resus' with smoke inhalation, fortunately none of them seriously. Then today i went as part of a health screening team to the Home to assess the other residents. The place was gutted with fire and it was a very sad sight. The politicians have all been making noises about 'improving things' but ultimately this is another example of how backward parts of South Africa really are!
This has been a truly extraordinary week and one i will never forget.
I also played for my team the 'Blue Stars' on Sunday and the pitch was inside a School for the Deaf. It was definately the worst pitch i have ever played on with very little grass, fortunately i play right midfield so see the most grass out of everyone!! It was amazing to have all these deaf kids surrounding the pitch and then at half time crowding round me and just gawking! As we'd had no water i had a lot of stubble and they kept miming about my face. I am so lucky to have had such an experience - nowhere else on this earth apart from Africa could such a scene have existed..

Saturday 3 November 2007

Disaster

Nkandla is officially a disaster. I'm half-cut for reasons that will be explained later so sorry if this doesn't make much sense. on Thursday there was a massive storm with thunder, lightning and hail. Rivers of mud flowed through the hospital. Consequently we have had no electricity, water and my car was damaged in the process. A number of houses were flooded with mud as were some of the wards....this place is a disaster!!!
My car was towed to the nearest Opel dealership this morning...2 hours away! So i am stuck! Having texted a number of mates in Oz who told me how good a time they were having, i decided to make the most of it. So i joined a guy from the hospital and we went to the village and had a braai outside the butchers. Not sure about the meat (no refrigeration) but after a few Amstels and with everyone staring at the strange white man cooking and drinking in the street, i settled in. we then retreated to sitting under a tree (it was hot) and checking out girls, drinking more beer and chatting about the world. I felt very local and not bored at all. After chatting up the very tidy paramedic who works in the hospital i have retired here as we have power now. It has been a very African Saturday and one that i will not forget for a long time.

Tuesday 30 October 2007

Interview Panel

Just had to write a short note about what i did today. My reputation in the hospital (and perhaps because of my skin colour) is such that i was told i was needed on an interview panel today. It was for a number of senior nursing positions, and i was clearly out of my depth! The whole process was incredibly tedious and my opinion of who was a good candidate seemed to be totally different to the other nurses on the panel, but i couldn't begrudge the free food and time away from the Out-Patients Department!
Bizarre

Sleeping in a Cave

Had a week off to go hiking in the Drakensberg Mountains. It came at just the right time as i needed to recharge my batteries and what better way than to go hiking for 8 hours a day!! On the first night, myself and 2 other docs hiked to a cave on the side of a mountain and then set up camp. With our fire going well and having swum in the 'Marble Baths' we were ready for anything and then witnessed an amazing electrical storm which passed through the valley. Thunder and lightning whilst sitting in a cave is definately a one-off experience for me! After an early morning swim we hiked back to the cabins with a troop of baboons eyeing us suspiciously on the way. Erstein is a Norweigan doc about to go to the Antarctic for 3 months, who has a fascination with bird-watching. I learnt loads from him over the week but it reiterated to me that i am not that interested in the feathered type of birds (...and have been very disappointed with South African women so far!).
For the second half of the week, we went to the 'Ampitheatre' - a section of the mountain range which separates South Africa from Lesotho. If you ever get the chance i would highly recommend this as one of the most stunning views in the world! Each night as i supped a Hansa beer and tended to the braai i was in awe....a drop of Amarula made it even more amazing!!

The weekend before i'd got drunk round a logfire at a backpackers we stayed at and observed some racist Afrikaner kids until 4 in the morning. It took some restraint not to tell them what racist pigs they were...but they were much bigger than me. The obvious thing to do the next day on 4 hours sleep and a hangover was to run a 10K race through a game park!! Having seen a rhino, giraffe and wildebeest from the start line i was a little nervous, fortunately none of them appeared out of the bush whilst i was running. By that evening i was so tired that i didn't care that England lost the Rugby World Cup final....

Tuesday 16 October 2007

Sodwana Bay

Sodwana Bay is a beautiful area in Northern KwaZulu Natal near the Mozambique border. I learnt to dive there in 2002 with Andy and Yvonne, and it was a real pleasure to go back. I did loads of reminiscing and was sick on the boat again (just like 2002!). The dives were great and i saw a turtle, white tip shark (briefly), boxfish, honeycomb moray eel chasing a potato bass, aswell as amazing coral everywhere. After one of the dives a few of us went quadbiking through the forest on dirt roads. So much fun, caning it as fast as the instructor would let us. She said there were loads of snakes, hyenas and even leopards in the area...but all i saw were monkeys and a dead jackal!!
Watching the rugby was fun too, although the Saffas already think they've won the tournament so most of them went home at half-time in the England game.. I would love it if we turn them over on Saturday (although clearly i can't see it happening, and thus will be keeping my head down).
Saw my first gunshot victim last Thursday night. The poor 49 year old had multiple entry wounds and her husband had been killed in the robbery. I managed to resuscitate her and organised for her to be transported to the bigger hospital for surgery. Whilst i was waiting i Xrayed her and to my complete surprise i found she was pregnant!!! She made it to the operating table but unfortunately died post-op. I was pretty choked when i heard that as i'd put in a lot of effort at 3 in the morning.
I've tried to upload some pics but it just takes way too long... i'll post some soon though

Thursday 11 October 2007

Tigers

According to the locals there are Tigers in the nearby Nkandla Forest. Mmm I'm not convinced but i'm also not going to argue with the Zulus as what do i know about their habitat. On Saturday night we drove back through the Forest as i'd been at a course in Pietermaritzburg during the day. We were in a hospital 4x4 truck with a driver and he didn't hold back on the dirt roads! If there are Tigers there we were going far too fast to see one..
At one point it was pitch black, the sky was full of beautiful stars and we were caning it at 100kph, then this lady started running towards the vehicle. The driver managed to crank on the brakes before we hit her. I think she may have been drunk or psychotic but the driver didn't let us get out to check on her and drove off at full speed!
To be fair i was getting stuck in to my 3rd beer in the car after a long day at the course and having just heard the rugby result against the Aussies!! So i wouldn't have been much use anyway. As we all know - drinking on a long journey is never a great idea as the bladder starts to cry out for relief. My colleague wanted to see where Jacob Zuma (Vice President of South Africa) lived as we passed his residence on the way back. I promptly used the opportunity to relieve myself, thus pissing outside the home of the second most important man in SA. Can you imagine doing that at no.11 Downing Street?!!
I'm off to Sodwana to go diving this weekend, hoping to see a few whale sharks and turtles. Can't wait! Been a bit boring at work this week as it has been hosing it down with rain and so very few patients have come, so i'm looking forward to escaping to the beach. Laterz

Tuesday 2 October 2007

Testdrive with Toyota

I don't think i've said before but i work with 2 Congolese, 2 Nigerian, 1 Cameroonian, 1 Burmese and 1 South African doctor. Max is a Congolese guy who i live with and has become a good friend. I took him to a Toyota dealership on Saturday as he wanted to buy a new Auris. He was signing all the paperwork without trying out the car so i suggested a testdrive.... bad idea! He is a great guy but the worst driver i've ever been in a car with. The car salesmen and i basically had to tell him how to drive and i had to change the gears for him!! He is still set on forking out for a brand new car despite me suggesting it would be better spent on lessons. A car is a real status symbol here, but i'm more than happy with my little Corsa.
I also put my foot in it when talking to a colleague and i suggested that another colleague didn't need to work extra shifts as he had nothing to spend the money on (i am worried some of my colleagues will burn out very soon). It was pointed out to me that in Africa when someone works they have to send money to support spouses, children, aunts, uncles, nephews, grandparents etc etc for education, travel, food and life in general. It was another reminder at how good we have it in the UK. I won't be doing the extra shifts as i am already worried about burn-out and don't need the money as my salary goes a long way here!
My final bit of news was that i went to a game in the South African Premier League on Sunday. Mamalodi Sundowns vs Inkatha Royal Zulu FC (great names!). Despite a small crowd the atmosphere was lively, but the standard poor - i reckon Conference level. Comedy moment though was when i realised that it was Sven-Goran Eriksson's son who was the coach of the Zulus! He won't be the next England boss after McLaren i can assure you of that!
By the way i've been selected to play for the Uthungulu Health District Representative Football team...nice!

Monday 24 September 2007

Cruising

I drove back from Durban today after a weekend at the cricket and going mountain biking with a friend who i met in Liverpool and is also working out here now. It is about a 3 hour drive initially on the motorway and then up through the hills. The scenery is absolutely stunning with sugar cane fields, eagles flying above, and hundreds of people just walking along the side of the road. However, if you don't concentrate you are bound to hit a pothole, roaming cow or another driver with equal probability! Thankfully no more scrapes for me but it is thrilling to drive here for lots of reasons....
As i am about 100km inland at about 1500m above sea level it gets pretty cold, wet and misty. I am writing this whilst sitting with my 'Anglesea' woolie hat and big fleece on - its more like Scotland than Zululand. Durban in contrast is normally hot all year round and i was sitting in a t-shirt watching India beat the Aussies on Saturday night. Twenty-20 is definately the future for cricket, the atmosphere was awesome and reminded me of some great football grounds i have been to.
So far i have been finding the right balance between my rural experience and being able to relax at weekends. On Friday there were only 3 of us doctors in the hospital and during the 24 hours i was the anaesthetist at 5 Emergency Caesarian Sections. We finished the last one at 0100 and just before i went to bed i was asked to help out with some assaulted patients who had pitched up. This one lad had been attacked with a bushknife and his skull bone was visible and his ear was hanging off!! Damn it is violent around here
Speaking of which i hope to go to the Zulu Battlefields next weekend to see Rorke's Drift - which i believe is the site of the heaviest ever loss in one day by the British Army. Judging by what i saw on Friday night, those boys had no chance..

Wednesday 19 September 2007

Hearing Aids

I'm feeling pretty down after today's work as the harsh reality of poverty punched me in the face again. One boy came to see me as he couldn't afford a new battery for his hearing aid (approx R220) and he was requesting a Disability Grant (DG). Unfortunately that reason does not make him eligible and i was about to give him the money myself but the nurse told me not to as i would set a precedent (she was right of course).
Then later in the day a lady came to see me also requesting a DG. According to Government rules she did not qualify either, but i was left speechless as she begged me to give her the form as her children are starving and the family has no money at all. Each Wednesday this drama unfolds as it is DG day and the doctor has to medically assess these patient's applications. I hate it.
Its a public holiday this weekend and i am going to the Twenty-20 World Cup semi-final in Durban, will have to drown my sorrows there whilst barracking the 2 teams (likely to be Australia and South Africa). Its one way to relieve my frustration...

Thursday 13 September 2007

Hijacking

Thankfully my week did not get worse, but there was a hijacking alarmingly near to the hospital on Wednesday night. I was on-call and was asked to see a boy of 12 who had been thrown from the hospital transport which was returning from our referral hospital. Hijackers then made off with the hospital van! Fortunately the boy was fine but it reinforced my decision to avoid driving anywhere at night.
Aside from crime, South Africa has lots of other benefits including the fresh fruit one can buy at the roadside. Like any African country people buy from stalls and not supermarkets and although the choice is more limited, I have been used to eating the tastiest avocados and juiciest oranges direct from the grower. Its very organic!!
Off to Durban this weekend for a course on TB, HIV and sexually transmitted infections, not planning to get one myself!!

Tuesday 11 September 2007

Wildlife

I feel quite lucky to be alive after my weekend in a nature reserve. My friend Catherine was driving us to the beach through a small game park when suddenly a huge Waterbuck (the size of a small horse) ran in front of us and jumped in to the windscreen!! It happened in a split second and when we skidded to a stop thankfully none of us was hurt. I was covered in shards of glass but we all walked away from the car. Cat's VW CitiGolf had a huge dent in the roof and the windscreen was destroyed, basically we were very lucky not to be killed. The animal had staggered off in to the bush and the rangers couldn't find it.
Wow! It certainly rivalled the experience of seeing rhinos, hippos, eagles and crocodiles that i saw during the rest of the weekend. I will have so many after-dinner stories after this that i may go on the circuit!!

Friday 31 August 2007

Healthy baby

Phew!
Successfully performed my first Caesarian Section in South Africa yesterday - healthy mother and baby and a very relieved surgeon (...ie me!). I lost about 2kg in sweat during the op i was so nervous and the theatre lights didn't help, i wasn't a pretty sight by the end! That was with one of the other docs and they now say i'm good to go it alone.......whoooaa i said - this is a major operation and i will definately be insisting on some more help before i do it alone.
Then today i was in charge of the Emergency department and Out Patients as we were a little short staffed. That is basically the major problem here - a shortage of doctors, nurses, equipment (the ECG machine is out of the dark ages!!). Still, i'm loving the challenge and am aware of my limitations.

Outside of work i am having my car delivered on Monday (a 2nd hand Vauxhall (Opel) Corsa) which will bring back memories as i passed my test in this little beast 13 years ago.....first time for those of you wondering!! I then plan to scoot around KwaZuluNatal (KZN) at weekends and enjoy some safaris and scuba diving. Plus i'm off to the 20-20 Cricket World Cup in Durban in September....nice!

Its winter here but is still in the early 20s most days. Can get pretty chilly at night as we are up in the hills, and the sun goes down at 6pm so evenings are long and drawn out. Thanks again for the wireless radio as SA tv is abysmal....

Wednesday 29 August 2007

Blue Stars

Sanibonani!
Kunjani? Right that's enough Zulu...i don't understand it during the day so i'm not going to pretend to you that i am fluent! Now that i'm getting used to the 'clicks' and 'tuts' and am learning some slang its not that hard.....yeah right!
Speaking and understanding some Zulu is pretty crucial as i am very very rural here at Nkandla in KwaZulu Natal. Imagine a ramshackle village, surrounded by mud huts, with a hospital, post office, bank and football stadium and that is Nkandla. I'll post some pictures when i have replaced the camera that some baggage-handler nicked out of my bag!! The scenery is stunning and the hills in Zululand are immense, yet everyone walks....and the poverty is mindboggling. It is already reminding me how lucky i have been to grow up in the UK!
Yet the people seem happy. I am constantly laughing with colleagues and even people who i don't know, i think it must be a survival strategy to try and remain positive when life contains so little. I am finding it hard already though to see so many patients with Tuberculosis and HIV, the numbers are staggering and we had a case of XDR-TB (extremely drug resistant-TB) here this week which basically kills you in 1 month!
Outside work - i have signed for the local football team called the 'Blue Stars'. On my debut i sustained a black eye from a loose elbow - a welcome from the locals! But i must have done alright as i was picked for the next round and then scored in a Penalty shoot-out in the SemiFinal. The wolfwhistling was pretty intimidating when you know you are such an outsider to this world and most of the crowd was drunk! Now i know what Cyrille Regis had to put up with!

Thanks for reading, i'll post again soon....